Naples
efschlenk
Naples, Italy
Shore Excursion and Port Review
NAPLES (NAPOLI) is a large, gritty, and
focally very poor city (like many American cities). The waterfront is not
particularly attractive, but it is safe during the day. The one
recommended in-town activity is the famous National Archeological Museum,
which is a 20 minute walk from the port, but unfortunately is closed on
Tuesdays (our day in that port).
From Naples there is easy and cheap access by
the Circumvesuviana train (a small commuter line which runs along the Bay
of Naples, with its own station about 20 minutes by foot or a short taxi
ride from the port). The trains leave about twice hourly for Ercolano/Herculaneum
(20 minutes, 2 Euros), Pompeii (40 minutes, 2 Euros), and Sorrento (60
minutes, 3 Euros). Herculaneum is a 10 minute walk downhill from its
station, Pompeii is adjacent to its station, and Sorrento (and the nearby
Amalfi coast) is the end of the line.
I highly recommend leaving early for any of
these sites – the first hour in the morning you will have the places to
yourself, before the tour bus hoards descend. Nothing compares with a walk
through quiet, empty, and evocative ruins (I personally prefer Herculaneum
since the reconstruction is smaller but more complete, with impressive
mosaics and a few artifacts still in situ). Audioguides are available at
each site (5 Euros). Entry to either site is 10 Euros and a combined entry
is 18 Euros.Sorrento
is a delightful but touristy coastal town. From the train station, walk a
short distance downhill then turn left along the main shopping street.
When you get to the square with the halo’d saint statue, venture a few
blocks downhill for the views (and possibly a snack) at the "Foreigners’
Club" (ask a local for directions). It has a beautiful patio with the best
views in town, and the food is reportedly reasonably priced and reasonably
good. From the same square mentioned above, you can continue straight
ahead (following the curve of the bay away from the station) along a
delightful, narrow pedestrian street which runs parallel to the main road
but is one block nearer the water. At the end of this street you can
rejoin the main road, walking gently uphill for 15 minutes to the Bristol
hotel for a view back to the town and across the bay. This is where the
horse carriages turn around and you should too, unless you are a fast
hiker and want to continue to the end of the cape by road and foot trail
(there are good maps at the Foreigners Club information booth).
When you get back to Naples (4 Euros, 60
minutes), your train ticket will also be valid in the Naples subway. Get
off at the main station (Garibaldi) and transfer to the metro one stop to
Piazza Cavour. This is just across a small park from the pink-colored
National Museum. If it is not Tuesday and not too late in the day, you can
see all of the treasures from Herculaneum and Pompeii which were removed
to this museum (a perfect closure to your visit). From the museum you can
walk 20 minutes downhill to the port and ship along a busy and safe
shopping street, but watch out for traffic (including kamikaze scooters)
when crossing streets.